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Perfumer-creator

A perfumer-creator designs and composes fragrances by blending aromatic ingredients to create unique scents that evoke emotions and capture the imagination.

Profession of
perfumer-creator

If the profession of Perfumer-Creator has resisted a clear definition for so long, it is perhaps because, in addition to a highly developed olfactory sense, it requires a certain taste for paradox. Between ancestral tradition and permanent innovation, the know-how of composition is at the same time artisanal, creative and scientific.

To make the raw material disappear behind the emotion like a chef, to compose from tones and notes (on an organ!) like a musician, to let oneself be guided by the genius of creation and, for all that, not to take oneself for an artist, this is the challenge faced by the Perfumer-Creator. The composition requires a complete technical knowledge of the properties of the different materials used and a perfect memorization of their scent. The Perfumer’s expertise consists in transforming an idea or a concept into olfactory images, by assembling natural and synthetic fragrant raw materials in an original, aesthetic and efficient way, whatever the field this creation is meant for.

The hope to inspire others

The Perfumer-Creators are constantly seeking inspiration with the hope to inspire others through their creations. On the lookout for the trend while avoiding being victims of the fashions of their time, they express, through writing, the conception of an imagined olfactory form: the formula, whose realization by the weighing of its various components gives the perfume its material existence. A perfume expresses the personality of its creator.

THE COMPOSITION OF PERFUME IS A WORK OF THE MIND.

The independent Perfumer-Creator creates perfumes with total autonomy, while managing their business according to the global strategy they have defined

Clients choose an independent Perfumer-Creator for what they represent, both creatively and commercially. The perfume formula is always theirs.

The independent Perfumer-Creator works closely with each client to ensure the same quality of service throughout the development process.

At each stage, the independent Perfumer-Creator is responsible for ensuring that the project defined with the client runs smoothly.

The independent Perfumer-Creator remains free in their sourcing and is not restricted in their choice of raw materials in strict compliance with IFRA standards and other applicable international regulations.

Manufacturing is outsourced to a production site that follows industry best practices and prepares and supplies all the regulatory documents required to market a perfume.

News

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  • Actualité

Oriental versus Amber

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  • Actualité

Why don’t perfumer-creators like to be called “noses”?

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  • Actualité

Green Deal européen, Chemical Strategy for Sustainability et incidences sur la palette du parfumeur

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  • Actualité

The right to be an author

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  • Actualité

How should we call women who create perfume? A (not so) French story

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TRAINING INSTITUTIONS

ISIPCA

Higher education institution in the field of perfume, cosmetics, and flavouring
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ESP

Ecole Supérieure du Parfum, School of creation & management in the perfume industry
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GIP

Grasse Institute of Perfumery

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Le Havre University

Master – Chemistry – perfume, cosmetics and flavouring
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Montpellier University

Master Chemistry, ICAP flavouring and perfume

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Nice University

Master FOQUAL (formulation-analysis-quality) option flavouring and perfume
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Defense
of the perfumer's
palette

Contribute to the defense of the perfumer’s palette with the legitimacy of collective expertise, in conjunction with the institutions of our profession are part of the main objectives of the sipc.

Thierry Wasser

NOSE JOB

Thierry Wasser

NOSE JOB
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Thierry Wasser developed an empirical olfactory sense at a very young age. Passionate about nature, he studied herbal medicine and received his diploma at the age of 20. After a decisive meeting with Jean Hadorn, director of the Givaudan Perfumery School, he joined the company in 1981. In 1987, he was appointed perfumer in Paris and worked under the direction of Jean-Claude Ellena. In 1993, he joined the Firmenich group in New York and then the Paris teams in 2002. Guerlain called on him in 2007 and appointed him Creative Director of Guerlain perfumes the following year. He is entrusted with the task of continuing the work of his illustrious predecessors. From his apprenticeship with Jean-Paul Guerlain, Thierry Wasser acquired a unique knowledge of the manufacturing know-how of the Maison Guerlain as well as an incomparable mastery in the purchasing of natural raw materials.

Christopher DIIENNO

MOCA FRAGRANCES

Christopher DIIENNO

MOCA FRAGRANCES
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VP Perfumer at OnScent and President of the American Society of Perfumers, Christopher Diienno is an experienced, passionate and creative professional. His repertoire includes fine fragrance, personal care, consumer products, luxury sensory and skin care. He holds a Bachelor of Science degree in Biology and Economics from Rutgers University. Christopher Diienno has been involved in the development of many of the world’s leading fragrances. His expertise and minimalist approach to fragrance design have contributed to many successful creations.

Raymond CHAILLAN

Raymond CHAILLAN

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Raymond Chaillan grew up in the Alpes de Haute-Provence, among his grandfather’s lavender and sage fields. After his ENSIA engineering diploma, he began his career with Antoine Chiris, first in Grasse, then in Paris. He went on at Roure in Paris where he stayed for 10 years, at Firmenich as a perfumer, then as international director of perfume laboratories at Dragoco, Sozio Protex and Argeville in Paris. Honorary president of the SFP and ISPC, of which he is one of the founding members, he has signed, among others, Marbert Man, Signoricci 2, Expression by Jacques Fath, Khadine by Yardley, Eau de Mandarine by Yves Rocher, Boucheron pour Homme, Yves Saint Laurent pour Homme, Monsieur Carven and contributed to the elaboration of Ho Hang by Balenciaga, Quartz by Molyneux, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, Le Parfum by Hermès, Anne Klein, Bleu Marine and Paradoxe by Pierre Cardin, Givenchy III, Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel.

Jean-Charles MIGNON

CPL AROMAS

Jean-Charles MIGNON

CPL AROMAS
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Jean-Charles Mignon, born in Poitiers, France, and raised in a family of florists, aspired to become a perfumer from a young age. After studying chemistry and training at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and the Robertet School, he joined Robertet UK in 2014 and in 2022 became a Senior Perfumer at CPL Aromas UK. He draws creative inspiration from his travels, diverse cultures, and the natural world. Beyond perfumery, his interests in photography and cooking contribute to his unique scent creations, reflecting a blend of experience. Also he is member of the board of the International Society of Perfumer-Creator to represent the BSP since 2018.

Serge OLDENBOURG

SERGE OLDENBOURG CONSULTING & CREATIVITY

Serge OLDENBOURG

SERGE OLDENBOURG CONSULTING & CREATIVITY
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After starting out in Grasse with Robertet, Serge Oldenbourg joined Dragoco (now Symrise) where he worked as a perfumer-creator in Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Holzminden. Always curious, he is as much interested in natural materials as in synthetic or biotechnological products. His knowledge of different cultures on several continents gives him an understanding of markets and trends. His efforts were focused on the development of fragrances for the body care, soap, and detergent sectors. Today, he pursues his passion as a consultant, to follow the technical and creative developments of the perfumery industry.

Contact-us

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The SIPC was set up in 2015 under the aegis of the SFP to defend and obtain official status for the professional occupation of perfume creator, and to safeguard the art of fragrance composition. The major fragrance houses have given consent for their perfume creators to join the SIPC, which now numbers more than 300 members.
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