As part of its “Green Deal” or “Green Pact” to make Europe the first climate-neutral continent by 2050, the European Commission published a Chemical Strategy for Sustainability (CSS) in October 2020. At a masterclass organized by SIPC on April 11 and introduced by Martina Bianchini, President of IFRA (International Fragrance Association), Calice Becker, SIPC Co-President, and Aurélie Perrichet, IFRA Director Europe, reviewed the various aspects of this plan and its repercussions on the perfumer’s palette.
The context
European consumers are concerned about the impact of the daily use of chemical substances. According to a March 2020 survey, 84% are concerned about the impact of chemicals on their health and 90% on the environment. The European Green Deal aims to transform the economy across the continent to ensure a sustainable future and a toxic-free environment.
215 standards already exist, prohibiting, restricting or regulating the use of various substances. For the record, ISPRS follows the recommendations of IFRA, which has been establishing standards and codes of practice for perfumers and others for almost 50 years (see box). It considers that perfume is essential to human life if it is created under sanitary conditions that enable everyone to enjoy it in complete safety.
New restrictions and “essential use
CSS aims to provide better protection for human health and promote a toxic-free environment. In concrete terms, this means supporting innovation to develop safer products, banning toxic chemicals if there is no alternative, and limiting exposure to chemicals (including combinations) that can affect the hormonal system.
It introduces two new principles. The first aims to prevent the most harmful substances from being used at the design stage, rather than controlling them once they are on the market, in order to ensure that products are safe and sustainable from the outset. The second authorizes the use of the most toxic chemical substances only if they are necessary for health, safety or the proper functioning of society: this is the concept of essential use. This concept is intended to speed up the banning of the most harmful substances. It is not clearly defined in European legislation. It does not stipulate, for example, whether fragrance in a cosmetic or cleaning product is essential. By not being considered “essential”, certain perfume ingredients could no longer be authorized.
Concrete consequences
In the perfumery sector, there are 80 concrete actions linked to CSS. Many fragrance ingredients are potentially affected by restrictions or bans. The mere presence of a substance considered “most harmful” in perfume compositions, whatever its dosage, could lead to a ban on that substance. Some plants naturally contain components that could be classified as “most harmful substances” at levels that nevertheless cause no harm.
The position and role of ISDR
SIPC can play an important role in ensuring that the voice of perfumers-creators is heard, and in defending their palette. A visit to Grasse was organized to exchange views with representatives of the European Community, to explain what we are doing to ensure the safe use of ingredients for perfumery, and what sustainable practices are already in place. The European Community needs to understand that we are already proactive in this area, and that we use these ingredients in marginal quantities compared to other industries. There’s a lot of education to be done on the specificities of the sector.
Important questions are at stake in negotiations at European and national level, on which ISDR can bring new perspectives, while reducing the risks of an overly polarized debate between NGOs on one side and industry on the other (IFRA standards already guarantee responsible use and safe practice).
The years 2022-2023 will be crucial for the defense of fragrance ingredients. SIPC must play an active role in this process. We need to explain what we do, addressing cross-cutting themes (cultural heritage, anthropological dimension, etc.), and reassure people about our practices, defending the perfumer’s palette and in particular natural raw materials. If it can’t stay the way it is, we need to be able to work with a broad palette, so that we can continue to create magnificent perfumes.
What is IFRA?
The IFRA (International Fragrance Association) is a body set up by perfume manufacturers to anticipate restrictions and advocate banning or limiting certain ingredients in order to prevent potential lawsuits or complaints.
For almost 50 years, IFRA has defined a code of good practice for perfume manufacturers. This code comprises three main elements: compliance with local, national, regional or global laws; implementation of standards (limits given to ingredients); and control of good handling and manufacturing practices.
It represents the fragrance industry’s commitment to providing consumers with fragrances created in accordance with these recommendations, which have been developed to ensure the safety of consumers and the environment.
